From: Peter Heal Date: Mon, 25 Jun 2001
There was a bloke making outdoor furniture here in
Canberra that has since moved to warmer climes in
Northern NSW. The material is a nylon mesh - I don't know
it's name. It can be hi frequency welded so seams and
reinforcement are pretty easy. I have the guys number and
he understands what a recumbent is. Last seat meshes I
got from him worked out at $22 each plus post $6 and took
a couple of days. It comes in a couple of plain colours
like Royal Blue and Dark blue all the rest that my bloke
has are pastels or stripes - not the best look on a macho
trike. Ian Sims also sells the mesh in any colour you
want as long as it's yellow. I'll dig out his number
tonight - actually it might be worth me talking to him
about paying for an advert in Huff and I can write an
article on seats.
Date: 26 June 2001
The chap I spoke of is: Neil Millynn PO Box 214 Coraki NSW 02 66832599 Neil will weld seams top bottom & sides and the width will be very accurate. On my seats i punch holes about 10mm in from edge, insert a brake cable down the welded seam and attach with zip ties to the frame. This provides a firm seat and there are no pressure points from eyelets and bungy cord. People I have asked with greenspeeds reckon they don't get problems with the cords etc.
Got a Greenspeed
Parts "Dogalogue" last night. Ian sells the
seat cover already sewn and eyeleted for $80 @750 - 1150mm
long The Nylex Breezeway fabric comes in Red, yellow,
dark blue, bright blue, dark green for $20 per metre @1400mm
At 11:18 AM 4/16/01 -0400, Scott wrote: I wonder if you could write up this conversion in a bit more detail, for those of us who are "sewing challenged." What did your wife use for a "binding of 1 1/2 inch strap"? Is this a single piece of 1 1/2 inch webbing, or the nylon material used for the original seat? What sort of stitch and thread did she use? Do you basically just duplicate what RANS did, only on the "new" edges inside the uprights?
Glad to, Scott. I had written it up in some detail before so I didn't want to take too much bandwidth for the details again. What follows is even more detail.
I cut the mesh an inch narrower than the inside distance of the seat back tubes. A bit of space is needed to pull the mesh taut when lacing. The distance between the seat back tubes is narrower at the top than the bottom so cut both sides accordingly for a neat appearance.
The binding was black nylon strap available from an outfitter's store. Its used to make lashing and compression straps. Its probably a bit overkill but it is easily available, sews easily and looks good. It ran the entire length of each side of the seat mesh fabric. It was folded in half lengthwise to make the hem. My wife used a heavy duty polyester blend thread for minimum shrinkage and a zig-zag stitch. She ran two rows of stitching down each hem. The hem ends were trimmed to length and the cut edges heat sealed with a butane lighter to prevent fraying.
Insert the lacing rods in the new hems. I melted holes about every 1 1/4" along the hems for the lacing. The holes are about the size of an 8d nail. Parachute cord was used for the lacing. See note at the end about zip ties. The parachute cord ends will feed through the holes easier if you form a pointed end on them. Heat the ends with a butane lighter, when the melted nylon cools enough, roll the end between your thumb and index finger to form a tapered point. You might want a glove for this step.
Lace both sides up loosely leaving about 2x width of the seatback of extra cord at the top. After both sides are laced up, heat seal and tie off the bottom. Use a needle nose pliers to tension the cord and pull slack up through each hole in turn. Thumb pressure or a spring clamp pressing the cord against the seat tube will hold the tension. I did the first three wraps on both sides to establish the lateral spacing. Work your way up to the top. When both sides are evenly laced, the top can be tensioned similar to the way tent guy lines are tensioned with knots. Do this by tying a slip knot loop in the cord about an inch from the seat tube. Run the rest of the cord around the opposite seat tube, bring it back through the slip knot loop. Now you can pull on the tail of the cord to tension it. Tie it off at the loop with another slip knot or overhand knot.
Essentially we did duplicate what Rans did with heavier material in the hems. I thought the stresses on the "side" hems of the modified cover would be greater than the stresses on the hems of the stock cover so the heavier hem material would be a good idea.
Note: I tried zip ties but the 50# type commonly available at home improvement stores weren't strong enough. You haven't lived until you are 15 miles out on a fifty mile loop and find the zip ties giving way like a zipper. I had spares but they gave way too. 15 miles is a very long way to ride with only a rolled up jacket for back padding!
Thursday, 29 January 2009